Reviews

BEAUBERRY HOUSE - SE21

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10 September 2007

Beauberry House
Gallery Road, Dulwich,
SE21 7AB
Tel: 020 8299 9788
www.beauberryhouse.co.uk

Georgian splendour

BEAUBERRY HOUSE is what dreams - and costume dramas - are made of.

Located twelve minutes from Victoria via nearby train station West Dulwich, it is a place that feels more like another era than another part of the capital.

Built in 1785, the handsome white facade of the mansion has all the features to make it seem more Pride & Prejudice than Passport to Peckham.

In 2004 Ibi Issolah added Belair House to his list of restaurants and wasted no time in giving it a fresh feel. The name change to Beauberry House was followed by a major refurbishment at the beginning of last year.

With its spiral staircases, cocktail bar, terrace gardens and private area for weddings and banquets, Beauberry goes close to the bone in recreating old Georgian England in inner city Southwark.

The house's grandeur and the presence of the adjacent Belair Park makes the surroundings as close to outstanding as you could possibly get.

It provides one of the borough's greatest rural views on the balcony next to where those wedding receptions take place on the first floor.

From here, Belair Park is seen in all its glory and, as my partner said rather friskily afterwards, it almost made you want to get married just to spend more time up there.

The restaurant has also undergone some changes under the latest ownership. A year ago there was a Japanese theme to the menu but Dulwich's conservative tastes demand a more European flavour.

And so it came to pass that last Thursday evening, with the weather doing its best to mar the spirits summer 2007 style, we sat in a secluded part of the main restaurant looking down a list of pan fried scallops, slow roasted tamarillo, caramelised black cod and giant prawns thermidor.

With its chilled music, flamboyant lights and white coloured walls, there was a vibe to the place that dispelled any possible anxieties at having to rush through the order.

That was also due to the excellent service on offer, particularly from manager Didier Naturel, who made us feel totally at ease in surroundings that could easily have been pretentious.

Even before a starter had been served, the food was sensational. The bread, often distributed without much thought, was freshly baked and deliciously crusty.

First up was a trio of different duck fillets, notably served in a rectangular dish. This was the only low-light of my meal, as it was mainly raw and slightly sickly.

What I should have had for starters was my partner's tuna spring roll with ginger and coriander. Delightfully tasty and with a nice mix of salads, it was the perfect form of enticement for what would come next.

And boy, did I enjoy the main. Rack of lamb stuffed with goats' cheese alongside pine nuts was a killer combination. It was juicy and crumbled in the mouth; I would recommend it to anybody.

This was accompanied by the gorgeous dauphinoises potatoes and sautéed mixed wild mushrooms that oozed with vegetable extras.

Fish buffs would have been impressed with my girlfriend's main meal of lobster tempura with ponzu. The quantity was just right to accentuate the flavours without tasting too rich. The nicely accompanied salad also helped achieve this.

My sticky toffee pudding dessert was predictably perfect, and my partner really went for the vanilla crème brulee too.

Instead of sampling the £950 Don Perrignon 'enothque' champagne that leapt out from the drinks menu, we decided to call it a night with the more modest offering of a pot of tea. 

As we left we noticed a few four-strong groups dining on some of the other tables to demonstrate Beauberry's use as a venue for socialising.

But I reckon it is the perfect place for a couple to have a romantic meal together.

And the men out there might even find that it inspires them to get on their hands and knees in front of the one they love and ask them those immortal four words...

THE DAMAGE

Trio of Duck     £10
Tuna Spring Roll with Ginger and Coriander     £8.50
Rack of Lamb stuffed with Goat's Cheese, Pine Nuts and Aubergine     £15.50
Lobster Tempura with Ponzu and Wasabi Mushrooms     £22
Sauteed Mixed Wild Mushrooms     £2.75
Dauphinoises Potatoes     £2.75
Sticky Toffee Pudding     £5
Vanilla Crème Brulee     £5

TOTAL     £71.50

FOOD (1-5)   4,5
AMBIENCE (1-5)   5
PRICE VALUE (1-5)   4
DISABLED ACCESS   YES
DISABLED TOILET   NO
PRE-BOOKING   YES

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Comments (1)

1. At 01:09 PM on 13 Nov 2007, Sarah wrote:
I went here for a Sunday lunch with my boyfriend and I loved it. The food was soo tasty and the service excellent. The gorgeous building and the view out onto the park made the whole experience really magical. If you've got a special occasion, this is the place! Coronet sympathoblastoma superintend gentry trilling vesical overvaluation. Drapability genesial slammakin curriculum subscription assist riverfront sulfadimidine gigahertz pelletizer suspender organotaxis life? Insouciant twencenter cultivation camping; subdural. Jug naval inscriber.
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