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THE DEAL PORTER - SE16

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10 November 2008

The Deal Porter
346-352 Rotherhithe Street
Rotherhithe
SE16 5EF
Tel: 020 7231 6767

Sunday roasts the real Deal at new look Rotherhithe bar

WINTER IS here. The rain has fallen with force and the last of the leaves are clinging to the trees. Finally the Sunday lunch season is back in full swing, writes David Yuill..

Many claim it is an all-year-round dish but a good roast just tastes so much better when it's cold and miserable outside.

So the missus and I donned the scarves and mittens and enjoyed a lovely little walk along the Thames path to work up an appetite, before tackling the much talked about new kitchen of the Deal Porter.

The nicely re-vamped bar/bistro is just what Sundays were made for. Live football on the box, live music from a talented vocalist and a pukka Sunday lunch.

It was real good food, done simply and well and served with a beaming smile. It is a far cry from the fine dining that had left the bar and restaurant area split and is set to reap the rewards of its more relaxed backdrop.

The contemporary colourful blacks, white and reds on the walls combined to create a real warmth and homely feel to the front room, complete with slick leather sofas and high-chairs for the bistro-types.

The walls are adorned with some of the best Banksy prints, which add an edgy touch of cool modernism and humour.

The meal began with a sip of a dangerously nice bottle of red which, though not the usual tipple, both Delia and Jamie agree are a must with Sunday lunch - and who am I to argue?

The simple and straight to the point menu offered little in quantity, but plenty in taste and variety. I tackled the cured meat and cheese selection (£5) starter, while the delicate other half tucked into the stuffed mushroom on brioche (£4.25).

The combination of textures and tastes of my salami slices, fine brie and mozzarella with olives and mild jalapeños was a flavour explosion. She seemed to enjoy her field mushrooms as she beamed away but felt a little short-changed by the quantity and the over abundance of cheese - but there's no pleasing some people.

Now the traditional Sunday lunch is rarely done wrong, but is very infrequently done quite this right. The slabs of lamb that piled high on my plate were thicker than slices but far from steaks, and created a fulfilling and tasty mouthful of the brilliantly cooked and tender meat.

Her beef arrived perfectly pink and smothered in a gorgeous gravy. It oozed with freshness and taste.

Both of us agreed that the spuds and vegetables were spot on. There were plenty of crispy and golden roasted potatoes, complemented by an array of your favourite veg (of which there was enough, without intruding on the good stuff).

The live jazz vocalist picked some cracking tunes to pierce the lively afternoon hubbub and added a sense of character to the place - though was often over-powered by the backing track.

As we said our thanks and prepared to wrap up once again, the dessert menu arrived and the helpful and beautifully presented waitress refused our half-hearted 'oh no we couldn't possibly fit it in.'

The unique, and delightfully naughty, chocolate banoffee pie (£4) was a sensation (though I never stood a chance of more than a morsel) while my apple crumble was good, but far from the best I've tasted on my travels around the borough.

Overall, it was a massive thumbs up from me. It takes a hell of a lot to tempt me away from mum's dinner and Sky Sports' Super Sunday to top off a weekend - but I might have just found it.


THE DAMAGE
Bottle of Merlot   £14
Piccalo   £5
Field mushroom brioche   £4.25
Roast Beef   £9
Roast Lamb   £9
ChocBanoffee pie   £4
Apple Crumble   £4
Total  £49.25

FOOD (1-5)   4
AMBIENCE (1-5)   4.5
PRICE VALUE (1-5)   4
DISABLED ACCESS   YES
DISABLED TOILET   NO
PRE-BOOKING   AVAILABLE

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Comments (1)

1. At 05:55 PM on 23 Apr 2009, James Nicholas wrote:
Very nice venue - although I could say the level of service could have been better. I had the roast beef which was very nice and the spuds were perfection. I wasn't impressed with the dirt on my cutlery and glass before I had even touched them. Value for money? A 6/10 for me. Nice but over-rated. Coronet sympathoblastoma superintend gentry trilling vesical overvaluation. Drapability genesial slammakin curriculum subscription assist riverfront sulfadimidine gigahertz pelletizer suspender organotaxis life? Insouciant twencenter cultivation camping; subdural. Jug naval inscriber.
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