I kept hearing talk of Gyoza Guys, ‘an amazing street food place in Maltby Street’, and I kept saying to myself, ‘Not another one…’ But then when old friend and industry connoisseur Nico got in touch and asked if I’d been to Gyoza Guys that was the moment I knew I had to check it out, writes Michael Holland.
The gyozas (dumplings) are made fresh and they taste like it. They are packed solid with deliciousness and are full of flavour, unlike other gyozas I’ve had that are full of hot air and quite bland. First they are steamed and then grilled so you have the different textures of soft and crispy.
I opted for the House Mix (5 Gyoza) to get a taste of all the dumplings that chef Amir Pem has created. First I had the vegan option: Japanese Yakuza Mushroom Gyoza(1) – Mushrooms marinated in miso, sweet soy and holy basil. This was good. Surprisingly good. Vegan food has come a long way since its early days. In one bite you experience all the flavours and textures, which is quite exciting.
Next was the Vietnamese Lemongrass Chicken Gyoza(2) – Chicken marinated in lemongrass, lime leaf and fish sauce. What’s not to like? Again, all the qualities of the ingredients come through as the chicken is balanced out with the sharp pungency of the fish sauce. Genius.
I’d now become aware of my tingling nose – that beautiful moment when a chilli surprise kicks in. I was intrigued and found that the gyozas are served with home made Soy Maple Vinegar, fried shallots and the Gyoza Guys’ own chilli oil to add even more to the event. Impressive.
I was now as interested in the chef that had come up with these objects of desire as the gyoza themselves. Amir has been cooking for most of his adult life in several different areas of cuisine. He has cooked for Paul McCartney and was the main man in another local business, Peckham Pastrami. But now gyoza is his passion and it shows. These dumplings are made with love and he makes sure his team show the same amount of love when the product is made and served.
Next up was Thai Pork Pad Krakow Gyoza (2) Pork marinated in Thai basil, chilli and fish sauce. I was at the point now when I knew I could live on gyozas for all time and believe I had reached nirvana.
I wanted to order more but this was Saturday and the only day when Gyoza Guys serve their very special Malaysian Laksa Noodle Soup with prawns, tempura seaweed and chicken gyoza, so I had to leave room.
The dish is created over three days and by the time it is done it is a full-bodied, rich and spicy soup that has everything you need to call it a triumph of cooking. The coconut milk is the foundation for the noodles, prawns and chicken; it is the siren of Greek mythology that lures you in before the spices suddenly appear to make your eyes water and warm the body. Beautiful.
And just when you think life couldn’t get any better you are told that the little paper logo labels that come with every plate are actually edible. I put mine on my tongue and had a religious moment that took me to Heaven and back.
But to top it all off I found that Chef Amir is a Bermondsey Boy who grew up on an estate on the other side of the railway arches from mine, which makes me love him and his gyozas even more.
The Gyoza Guys’ hashtag is #nosharing and I totally agree. I don’t care who you are, you won’t be getting my last gyoza…
Gyoza Guys, Maltby Street Market, Ropewalk, SE1 3PA. Times: Friday 6pm – 10pm; Saturday: 10am – 5pm; Sunday: 11am – 4pm.
Facebook: @gyozaguys1
Instagram @gyozaguys
Twitter: @GyozaGuys
House Mix 7.50
Laksa 11.00
TOTAL £18.50
Photos: M. Holland